Wednesday, August 14, 2019


July 26, 2019 Friday Rome

We had coffee and breakfast after a miserably hot and intermittently sleepy night.  Then we set out to visit the Stadio Olympico, the stadium from the 1960 Olympics.  Visiting Olympic sites is another thing we do.  It was just a couple of bus rides to get within a short walk across the Tiber to reach the site.  I’m sure the stadium is still used for sporting events.  In fact when we were in Malta we saw a footie match between Real Madrid and Roma played in the Stadio Olympico.  It appears that the National Teams may have their headquarters here also.  The first thing to greet us as we walked toward the stadium was the Mussolini Obelisk.  The internets informs me that Mussolini erected this in 1932 as part of a plan to try and win the 1944 Olympics.  The obelisk is 120 ft tall and made of Carrara marble, what else?  I’m kind of surprised that it wasn’t pulled down when Mussolini was killed near the end of WW II.

Sue went into the building to see what was open to the public.  I took photos of the athletic figures on the front of the building.  The only thing open to us was a track next to the stadium.  The track is named the Stadi dei Marmi, the Marble Stadium.  It is ringed by large Fascist-Era statues of athletes.  This running track doesn’t make any sense with regard to the Stadio Olympico, because there was no place for seating.  Turns out it was built/completed in 1928 for the Fascist Academy of Physical Education which was located next door.  We didn’t think the stadium would be open for us to walk into, and it wasn’t.  So I took a few more photos and then we were off to our next location.  The panorama of the stadium turned out pretty good.  Did I mention that you should never get a new cell phone?

The next stop was the Barberini Gallery to see the Caravaggio painting “Narcissus” that is ALSO a 1001 painting.  This trip required a bus ride, the subway, and walking one of Rome’s seven hills to get to the museum.  It was there that we learned the painting was in Potsdam, Germany!!!!  I had contacted the Barberini Gallery via its Facebook page.  I asked if the painting would be on display when we visited at the end of July and the first week of August.  They replied that it would be on display.  Who knew that there was a Barberini Gallery in Potsdam!  I had used Google to search for the Barberini Facebook page, and then just asked my question back in May.  When we get the internet, probably not until we are in a hotel in Sicily, I’ll see if I missed that I was using the Potsdam Barberini Facebook page.  Well it turns out that I should have used the “official” name of the Gallery: Barberini Corsini Gallerie Nationali to get to the right Facebook page.  Well, the painting still would not have been there even if I had the right page. But we wouldn’t have been counting on seeing this painting.  We were so upset that we didn’t even go into the museum.

Our next stop was the Palazzo Venezia which is in front of the Victor Emmanuel Memorial in the Capitol district.  This palace was built in the mid-15th century for a Cardinal who became Pope Paul II.  It is now a museum.  It does have paintings, but it is more a museum of how the rich and powerful lived.  It has a painting by another artist whose paintings I want to see.  He is known as Giorgione.  There are probably less than 50 paintings attributed to this artist.  He died young, I believe in one of the plagues that occurred fairly regularly back then.  The painting I wanted to see was there.  Giorgione’s painting present his subjects in a more realistic fashion.  There was also an exhibition of the history of the Bulgari fashion and jewelry.  I know nothing about either, but some of the jewelry exhibits were impressive.  Sue even had to ask the attendant, who turned out to be in charge of the exhibition, if the jewelry was real.  He explained that all the jewelry was real.  There was even a dress there for Melania.  It was basically totally see through; it was on a manikin.  The Palazzo had two typical paintings that we make a point of seeking out: St. Jerome and the lion and the Annunciation.  I have added one of our favorite Annunciation paintings by Otto Dix.  The painting is at the Musee Unterlinden in Colmar France.  This painting to me is a realistic image of what happened (if it happened).  Imagine being a young teenage girl (I know, I know) being told by an angel that you are going to have a baby!  That might be just a little scary.

After we got home, Sue laid down to rest.  I went outside in the shade to locate a hardware store where I might be able to buy a fan.  The closest store was only about a 15 minute walk, so off I went.  The store was dark when I got there, but the guys inside must have seen me looking in the windows, because they door was open when I went around the second time.  There was a floor standing fan, almost exactly like one we have at home.  I asked how much, they said 20 Euro, and I said I’ll take it.  I then walked back home with the fan over my shoulder like a rifle.  We move the fan into the room where we are sitting or sleeping and it really makes the apartment bearable, not comfortable, but bearable.

We had tickets to visit the Vatican Museum tonight at 7:00 PM.  I had read on Trip Advisor that the Museum was less crowded in the evening.  We took the Metro to the Vatican area and sat outside at a restaurant to have a beer before the Museum opened.  Even with timed tickets there was a line to get in, but we didn’t have to wait too long.  We of course had visited the Museum before, but it is one of the things you do when in Rome.  We took the selfie at the top of the blog was taken at the open air Court of the Pinacoteca, so that is the Dome of St. Peter’s in the background.  The Pinacoteca (painting gallery) was closed because of a concert.  That area is usually almost deserted because most people go straight to the Sistine Chapel.  There is still too much to see: sculptures, tapestries, maps, and paintings.  By the time we got to the Sistine Chapel it was crowded.  To me this is a place you must visit, but if you really want to study the paintings you need to get a book.  The ceiling and end wall are by Michelangelo have so much going on that you need to have learned who all the figures are, and what their relationships mean.  The paintings on the side walls are by other famous artists, and they all have their own stories to tell.  Even though we didn’t get into the Pinacoteca, I still took a lot of photos. After we left the museum we went back to the restaurant where we stopped earlier.  We had a terrific meal.  We split a meat and cheese plate that was enough for four people, and then we split an entrée that was again delicious.  I think it was large ribbon pasta with bacon zucchini and a cheesy sauce.  I told Sue that I was surprised by how much I liked it. On the way home we stopped for gelato at a local store, then it was home to sleep in front of our new fan.

I’ve included three videos in the Vatican Museum album.  I may have to post them separately, and even then they might run because the files could be too long.  I won’t know until I post the files.  Well the videos played for me, now I'll have to see if they work on Sue's computer when she comes back from the store.  The videos ran on Sue's computer, so hopefully they will work for everybody.  One other note, a couple of the photos are jumpy; there is a "Move On" icon at the top of the photo, click it turn off the motion.  I haven't learned what I'm doing to cause this, have I mentioned don't ever get a new phone?


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