Monday, August 26, 2019


August 08, 2019 Thursday Siracusa and Catania

Thursday morning after breakfast we walked to another waterfront, but again no beach.  The ferries were unloading and the trucks just kept coming.  Everything not grown on the island must come in by ferry.  Then we went to the station to take the 11:15 train to Siracusa.  This ride was only 2.5 hours.  We stored our luggage at a bar right outside the station.  We had about a 25 minute walk to the Church of Saint Lucia to see the Caravaggio painting.  Most of the walk was pretty ordinary.  The area near the Cathedral had narrow pedestrian only streets, and they were pretty touristy.  St. Lucia and the Cathedral are on a large plaza.  St. Lucia is now just a museum, with no admission charge.  No photos are allowed, and there are large signs notifying you of this when you enter.  The Caravaggio painting is big: 13’-4.6” x 9’-10”.  There were quite a few people there, but it wasn’t crowded.  As we were looking at the painting, the attendant announced over the speaker that photos were not allowed, as a lady took a photo.  I later told him that they should sell photo licenses, as some museums do, he chuckled.  I did buy a postcard of the painting.  Then we went back out to the plaza to take some more photos.  Sue noticed a sign for the exhibition of a painting by Caravaggio.  I thought it was for an exhibition showing photographs of Caravaggio paintings.  The attendant said no, there was one painting by Caravaggio and two by a student of Caravaggio’s.  I paid the 7 and went inside.  The painting is “The Crucifixion of St. Andrew” this painting is attributed to Caravaggio.  I could waste our time talking about paintings by Caravaggio, attributed to, copies of, questionable, disputed, etc., but I won’t.  St. Andrew is known for being crucified on an X shaped cross, and that is not what Caravaggio has shown.

We had plenty of time before our 17:12 train back to Catania, so we stopped for a beer on the way back to the station.  We then once again walked down to the waterfront, and again didn’t find a beach.  We got back to the bar, picked up our bags and had a beer.  We were going to stay the night in Catania so we could take the Friday flight at 15:00.  This is the only weekly flight that wasn’t at 7:00 or 23:00.  The train ride was supposed to be only an hour and 12 minutes.  The train had to wait a half hour for another train to pass.  We didn’t get to Catania until after 19:00.  When we made our reservation at the B&B we had told them we wouldn’t get there until late in the afternoon. Our B&B was on the top floor of a building, 79 steps up.  It was actually like a small hotel in an apartment building.  Our guess is that the owner buys up apartments in the building and then has them refurbished. The room was small but nice with a new bathroom, air conditioning, and Wi-Fi.  There was an open air sitting area under cover with tables and chairs.  There was a refrigerated cabinet with sodas and beers, using it was on the honor system.  After the long climb up Sue’s knee was not up for anymore stairs, so I went out to get dinner.  We had seen the Istanbul cafĂ© with a big take-away counter nearby.  I got Sue a beef kabob and two large pieces of pizza for me and with a couple of beers it was not a bad way to end the day.

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