Monday, September 1, 2014


Sunday August 31, 2014

It is 9:20 and we are off to Manchester for five days, then Edinburgh for five more, then Dublin for two nights and then back to London.  So I’m using the train ride to catch up on where we’ve been since Oxford. 

On Wednesday we visited three museums in three different cities.  This was actually pretty easy since each museum was about a 10 minute walk from a train station.  Our first stop was in Leamington Spa about an hour north of London.  We had made an appointment to see two paintings on the list, because of course they were in storage.  The museum was in a park so the walk was very nice, the sun was actually out for change.  The very young lady curator met us and showed us the paintings in the store room.  It seems like many of the curators we meet are very young ladies; probably very low on the totem pole and therefore they get stuck with the job of showing us the paintings.  After seeing these two we looked around the small gallery and then it was back to the train station on onward to Birmingham.

The Birmingham train station and museum are located in an area that has many Victorian era buildings and some outdoor art.  The museum has some spectacular galleries, and a lot of art.  There was a very helpful lady at the information desk that knew quite a bit about the artists and the paintings we were interested in.  We couldn’t tell if she was a member of the staff or a volunteer, in either case she knew her stuff.  The museum has four paintings, and only one was in storage.  We found the three on display with her help.  We had to wait a bit to meet the young lady curator because I had screwed up the train times.  I made the appointment for 13:00, and we actually got to the museum shortly after noon.  So we had to wait a bit to see our painting.  Then we were off to our third stop in Leicester.  Leicester is where in 2013 the unearthed the grave of King Richard III under a parking lot.  He was the hunchbacked king in Shakespeare’s play of the same name.  Now Leicester and York are fighting where to finally bury him.  They may have settled it, but since I don’t have an internet connection you’ll have to look it up if you are interested.  And he did actually have a curved spine.

We just missed one train, so we were going to be a bit late for our third appointment.  I was a little worried because the curator had been very brief in his correspondence and had only allowed about 15 minutes in his schedule to meet us.  So I emailed to tell him that we would be late, and of course I didn’t hear back.  But he turned out to be really nice.  Again another guy who really knows his stuff.  He gave us a lot of information about the painting and the artist.  He recommended that we visit his gallery to see the exhibition of German Expressionist art that was on display.  It was very interesting, and for a small museum they have an important collection.  In fact the next day another curator remarked that Leicester’s collection was remarkable for such a small museum when we told her where we had been the day before.  Then it was back to the train station for the trip back to London.  We had time to get something to eat at the pub next to the station.  Another great experience.  The bartender was a young guy from South Africa who took the time to describe some of the micro-brews on tap and to let us sample several of them.  We even tried a hard cider.  Ciders are big here, every pub has several different ones on tap.  We thought they would be like apple cider with a kick, but the one we tried wasn’t too bad.  I still wouldn’t take it over a beer though.  We had a meat and cheese plate for lunch with beer.  The beer delivery guy sat down for a beer at the end of his day and it turned out he was an American.  He had been in the Air Force (ours) and married and English girl.  He was originally from Connecticut.  His mother was living in Florida and he was going to move back to live there.  At least two of his kids wanted to live in the US.  It made for an interesting lunch.  Then it was back onto a train for the ride home.

Thursday we were off early to Bristol to see two paintings at two museums in town and then to use a Zipcar to drive to a “Country Home” about 20 miles away.  This time the museums were about a 20 minute bus ride from the train station.  The first museum had our painting in a special exhibit and to get to that we walked through an exhibit about the war in Iraq.  The first thing you see is a large sculpture of the famous photo from Abu Ghraib of one of the prisoners that WE tortured.  It is about twice life size and it really made an impression, and it wasn’t a good impression.  Part of this exhibition were drawings made by British veterans made while they were in jail.  I didn’t read all the information, but most of these guys were apparently in jail because of PTSD and they had trouble re-adapting and were in jail because of drugs, alcohol, etc.  I’ll refrain from any editorial comments.  Anyway we found our painting and we were off to our appointment at the Bristol City Museum.  Another youngish (a bit older than twenties) lady showed us a really interesting painting “The Vivian Girls with China” by Paula Rego.  Seeing the painting in person (the one at the top of the page today) enables you to see much more detail.  It also helps to have a curator explain the background of the artist and the story the painting is telling.  The Bristol City Museum is in another gorgeous Victorian building.

Then it was a short walk to pick up the Zipcar and off to Dyrham (pronounced Deerham) Park.  Dyrham Park has country home that was originally owned by a Royal family for centuries until it was turned over to the National Trust because of what are called “Death Taxes”.  We used Google Maps for directions and almost got there without having to turn around.  I missed the turn on a roundabout and headed back towards Bristol.  It wasn’t a proper roundabout that allows you to circle around a couple of times until you figure out the correct exit.  Eventually I got back to the same roundabout and made the correct turn.  Sue had quite a thrill ride as I would drive onto the rumble strips on the side of the road, and even up on a curve once.  My excuse is that the GPS is on the windshield to my left, and I have impaired vision in my left eye, so I’m turning my head to the left to see the GPS and as a result I’m steering to the left.  It may not be true but that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.  The “house” is big as you can see from the photos.  I still don’t have an internet connection so you are spared my retyping the Wikipedia information.  We had to ask where our painting was located.  It is what is called tromp l’oeil, French for deceive the eye.  The painting is the actual size of a door and it makes you think you are looking through a doorway down a corridor.  The painting is about 8.5 ft x 4.5 ft.  The painting is located behind a barrier so we couldn’t get too close.  It really appears as if you are looking down a corridor. We walked around the grounds and visited the church that is on the grounds.  The church is still used a couple of Sundays a month.  The house is located in a park that has to be several hundred acres at least.  There were about 75 cars in the parking lot which amazed me.  I was expecting that we would almost be alone at the house.  But there were a lot of people there.  Our ride home was another experience.  The phone would not connect to a network when we started home.  That wasn’t a problem since we were on a motorway heading back to Bristol.  The GPS connected once we got back to Bristol.  I made a few wrong turns but we did get back without .any problems.  We dropped off the car at about 16:00 and our train didn’t leave until 17:00.  We got back on a bus headed to the train station for what we thought would be a 20 minute ride.  On the way we saw another painting by Banksy and Sue posted it on her Facebook page.  So I’ve added it to this album.  Well it was rush hour in Bristol and our bus wasn’t making much progress.  So with about 20 minutes before our train was to leave we got off the bus and walked back to the station.  We made it with about 5 minutes to spare; and we never did see our bus.

Friday Sue packed up our “big” suitcase with the clothes we don’t need for our trip.  We then took the suitcase to a self-storage place to keep it there for two weeks.  We went out to dinner and Jude will be amazed to learn that we didn’t have a totally wonderful time.  The food was great, but the service was very slow.  We actually left without having dessert, and that maybe a first.  But we might still be waiting if we had ordered one.

Saturday we returned one of our keys to the management company and then got the rest of our stuff ready for our trip.  We tried to find a place to eat in Camden Town, but everything was full and the waits were longer than we were willing to endure.  So we went back to a local pub where the food has always been good, and it was again.  I should add that we have now seen 43 paintings on our trip to date for a total of 437.  We should see over thirty in the next 12 days if all goes well.  That’s it for now.  I’m already another day behind!




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